Over the last few years, socks have become my favorite thing to knit. They’re portable, required as little as one skein of yarn, and can be as simple or challenging as you want. And since I’m getting ready to release my second sock pattern, I decided it was time to write a beginners guide to knitting socks. In this guide you’ll find the basic knowledge you need to pick a sock pattern and start knitting, plus a range of resources to help you on your sock knitting journey!
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Basic Types of Socks to Hand Knit
There are multiple different ways to knit a sock. You can knit top-down or bottom-up. There are socks where the heel is added after the rest of the sock is knit (afterthought heels) and other variations where the sole is knit separately from the rest of the sock. Within these basic styles of socks are lots of variations on heel type and toe type. There also is a lot of space for decorative stitch patterns like cables, lace, and color work.
Top-down socks are the most common these days, and most people find them to be the easiest. Unless you’re a really experienced knitter, this is where you should begin. As the name suggests, this style starts at the cuff, then you knit circularly downward in one piece. There’s a bit of mildly complicated stuff when you get to the heel, then the foot is mostly just a cylinder until you get to the toe. There’s some decreasing at the toe, then the last few stitches are typically grafted together. Top-down socks seem complicated at first, but once you’ve knit one, you should have the skills to knit all sorts of variations on this style.
Knitting Needles for Making Socks
I go into more detail about knitting needles in general in this post, but if you want the TLDR, I like Taukumi bamboo for needles US size 1 (2.25mm) or larger and Knitters Pride Karbonz for needles size 0 (2.0mm) and smaller.
Most socks are going to be knit on very small size needles. I find most patterns call for a US size 1 (2.25mm) or 2 (2.5mm), though there are plenty of exceptions. I do think this is a nice size for your first pair or two of socks knit in fingering weight wool. However, be aware that you may need to start knitting at a tighter gauge eventually if you want socks that will really last. I’ve recently experimented with going down as small as US size 000 (1.5mm) to try and make longer lasting socks.
The biggest decision you have to make when choosing knitting needles for socks is if you want to work with double pointed needles (DPNs) or circular needles. Neither option is superior to the other, but most people tend to have strong opinions about which they prefer.
Knitting Socks on Double Pointed Needles (DPNs)
DPNs are my preferred needles for knitting socks. While at first glance, they do look more difficult than using circular needles, I find they have several benefits. First, the needles naturally break your rows into sections. I find this allows me to work without stitch markers a lot of the time, because I use the needles as my guideposts. Second, it’s easy to move your stitches along as you work them because there’s no cable or bend in the way.
There are downsides as well. Stitch markers often are more of a hinderance than a help on the edges of the needles, which means having a start/end of row marker can be a pain if there are a lot of increases or decreases in your pattern along the edges. I find when I knit lace socks this comes up a lot. Also, if you’re not careful you can pull out once the needles pretty easily. This happens to me most often when I’m pulling my project out of its project bag. The tradeoff is still worth it in my opinion, but you may feel differently.
Knitting Socks on Circular Needles (Magic Loop Method)
The general rule when choosing a length for circular knitting needles, is that the total length (including both needles and cord) should be slightly smaller than the circumference of the thing you’re knitting. This clearly doesn’t really work on socks, which can have circumferences smaller than 7″ if you have small feet.
Enter, the magic loop method. It’s hard to describe, so I’m just going to link to this article from Nimble Needles which does a great job of explaining it.
For sock knitters, there are a few benefits to using circular needles. First, there is much less danger of your socks falling off your needles, whether you’re actively working on your project or during the dangerous moment where you take your project out of your bag.
Variations of the magic loop method also allow you to knit two socks at a time, which is great if you have trouble knitting the second of anything. While I prefer to knit my socks one at a time, I know many people find the idea of doing the same thing two times in a row to be painful.
My main complaint about the magic loop method is that adjusting the cable takes me out of my knitting flow. I find using DPNs to be a smoother, more seamless experience. However, you may find differently. I also find it a bit harder to find circular needles US size 0 (2.00mm) and below. It’s not impossible, but you may need to order them from specialty retailers, rather than just using Amazon.
Machine Knitting Socks: Circular Sock Machines (CSM)
There is one more way to make socks: a circular sock machine (CSM). Some of the first knitting machines invented were for knitting stockings, so this is by no means a new thing. And it can be a fun challenge if you’re so inclined!
CSMs aren’t the same as the cheaper circular knitting machines that have been so popular the last few years. These are closer to flatbed knitting machines, and use metal hooks. Felicia Lo of SweetGeorgia Yarns has been experimenting with them over the last few years, and gives a good introduction to CSMs in this post/video, including links to a few CSM manufacturers.
One of the coolest things about CSMs is that they can be (partially) made using 3D printing. The needles and several other parts need to be bought off the shelf, and they require a fair amount of assembly after coming off the printer, but it’s still pretty cool! I’ve seen good reviews of this one specifically. There also used to be at least one person selling 3D printed CSMs on Etsy, but when last I looked I couldn’t find them.
Beginner Sock Knitting Patterns
If you’re a total beginner, I recommend checking out one of the kits or classes below for your very first pair of socks. Most classes include a pattern, and it’s great to have step by step videos that use the exact pattern you’re working from.
If you’d rather go it on your own, just about any top-down sock is a good bet. Look for lace or textured patterns that have a short or simple repeat, rather than an elaborate design. A slip-stitch reinforced heel is very common and not at all difficult. You also want to look for a short row heel, which seems intimidating at first, but is one of the easier heel constructions in my opinion. Last, look for a round toe. This is a very simple way of finishing your sock and usually fits most people just fine.
Both my Fern Lace Socks and my soon to be release Over Under Socks (sign up for my newsletter if you want to know when they go live) are simple, top down patterns suitable for new sock knitters. The Fern is a bit more beginner friendly because the Over Under Socks use slightly different heel construction and a smaller needle size. However, neither would be a terrible first sock choice.
If you’re looking for a free pattern, I’d recommend this one from A Bee in the Bonnet. It was the first sock I knit without a video class, and even though I had a minor yarn debacle it was a great place to start. I went on to knit a few of her other sock patterns after, including the gorgeous Gladening Socks. Those combine lace with a bit of cable, so they aren’t the best fist socks unless you’re already comfortable with those stitch patterns.
If textures are stressing you out look for a “vanilla” sock pattern. There are many different versions out there, but I think I’d try out the CrazySockLadyDesign’s pattern, because they’re 2$, come with a video tutorial, and she has versions for using both magic loop and DPNs.
Yarn for Knitting Socks
There is no single perfect yarn for knitting socks but there are some characteristics that are more common than others. Generally, I find most patterns use fingering weight wool or wool blend yarn, with a four ply construction. Some examples of this are Malbrigo Ultimate Sock, Leading Men Fiber Arts Show Stopper, and SweetGeorgia Tough Love Sock.
How Many Plys Should My Yarn Have?
If you gently pull apart a yarn and notice that it’s made up of other, tiny yarns, those are plys. Yarns with more plys tend to be rounder than those with fewer plys, which can make your stitches look more defined. More plys also means that less of each ply is exposed on the outside of the yarn, making them more durable.
You certainly can knit great socks with two or three ply yarns, however, they may look and wear a little differently. I’d recommend swatching first to get a feel for how your finished sock will look/feel.
The one type of yarn I wouldn’t recommend using is single ply yarn, also known as singles. These can be a lot weaker and more prone to pilling than plied yarn. The only time I might consider using a single is if I planned to felt my socks into slippers after knitting and was using a non-superwash wool (more on that below).
What’s the Best Yarn Weight for Knitting Socks?
The majority of sock patterns are designed for fingering weight yarn. Fingering weight yarn is pretty light weight. Usually it’s categorized as a size 1 or superfine in the US. There are sock patterns that use heavier yarns like DK or even worsted. Socks that a use chunkier yarns can be harder to fit into shoes, which is their primary drawback.
Fingering weight yarn tends to be knit between 27 and 32 stitches over a 4″ gauge swatch in stockinette. I get about 16 wraps per inch with it, but depending on how you wrap, you may get a smaller or larger number. For me, the best way to tell if a yarn will be an appropriate weight is to look at the weight to yards ratio. If I’m working with a wool or wool blend yarn, most fingering yarns will have about 400 yards for every 100 grams or (3.5 ounces) of yarn. There can be a lot of variation, but + or – 40 yards per 100 grams is usually a safe range.
What Fiber Content Should You Used to Knit Socks?
Wool and wool blend yarns are great for socks because the bouncy and stretchy nature of wool makes it comfortable to knit with, especially at a smaller gauge. Wool also is warm, breathable (so your feet don’t get damp), and naturally antimicrobial.
Many yarns advertised as being intended for socks have a combination of superwash merino wool and nylon. The nylon is a synthetic petroleum-based fiber that can significantly increase the strength of the yarn when blended with wool. Nylon usually makes up between 10% and 25% of the fiber content when it’s used to strengthen wool.
Superwash is wool that’s been treated to remove the small scales that cover natural wool. This makes it difficult to impossible to felt the yarn, even if you throw your finished project into the washing machine and dryer. For a heavily used garment like a sock, this can make care much, much easier. However, there are a few downsides. The processes used for making wool superwash vary from producer to producer and can include some pretty nasty chemicals. Superwash wool also tends to stretch out, so your carefully knitted socks won’t fit as well.
Most superwash wool I see on the market is from Merino sheep. This wool tends to be a very fine wool, which means it doesn’t really stand up to the amount of wear that socks typically get. So, unless you like mending, using 100% merino wool (superwash or not) isn’t ideal for socks.
So, if you want to avoid superwash wool and nylon, what can you use to make socks that will last? Some knitters recommend using mohair to strengthen their wool, however, I haven’t seen any readily available commercial options with the two blended together. Some knitters will just hold a strand of mohair double with their fingering weight yarn. However, I’m not sure how this would impact the finished sock. I am hoping to see a few indie dyers start to cary a merino blend in the future though, once Knomad releases their undyed fingering weight merino mohair blend.
Another option is looking for yarn made with breads of sheep other than merino. I’m waiting on a package right now that has some of SweetGeorgia Yarns with a skein of their Bluefaced Leicester (BFL) and silk blend. BFL sheep make wool that’s a little bit longer and smoother than merino, so theoretically, it should hold up a bit better in socks. The Wooly Thistle also has a non-merino blend called Rambler that they designed to be strong enough for socks. Ampersand fibers has a fingering weight Corriedale that’s also on my list to try. So, while I haven’t found my perfect sock yarn yet, it isn’t impossible to find options that are non-superwash, nylon free, and made from wool from alternate breads of sheep.
How Much Yarn Do You Need to Knit a Sock?
Assuming that you’re using a fingering weight wool or wool blend yarn, most people can get at least one pair of socks out of a single skein of yarn. This is assuming that the skein is 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces) by weight and about 400 yards in length. My feet are about a US size 7 shoe, and when I make socks with a standard 6″ leg height I use about 75 grams or 300 yards of yarn.
So, if you’re out and about and see some beautiful indie dyed yarn, it’s usually a safe bet that if you see some gorgeous fingering weight wool or wool blend yarn, you’ll be able to knit a pair of socks out of a single skein! This is great, considering that it’s not unusual to find nice yarn at over 30$ a skein these days.
Where to Buy Yarn for Knitting Socks
Generally, if I know someone is looking to buy yarn for knitting socks, I recommend they go shopping in person at their local yarn store. There’s a chance you might find something suitable at your local big box store (I found this and this at Joann’s) but you won’t have nearly as big a selection as you would at at LYS. You also can look out for any nearby knitting or fiber conventions. They usually have a lot of vendors.
If you want/need to shop online, I find Jimmy Bean’s Wool to be a good bet. They tend to stock a lot of different colors in a wide range of brands. I also like to browse Etsy so that I can check out yarns from a wide range of indie dyers in one place. If you have a dyer you love, usually you can order directly from their website, which is nice. And if you dye your own yarn, Knomad is my favorite source for dyeable yarn.
Online Sock Knitting Video Courses
I personally love a good video course for something like learning how to knit socks. I actually prefer them over in-person classes, because go back and watch each step over and over again until I get it!
The School of SweetGeorgia is one of my go-to resources these days for all yarn related crafts, and they definitely have you covered if you’re looking for sock related classes. I recommend starting with their How To Knit Socks for Beginners course. But if you really get into sock knitting, they also have a range of other classes including Custom Toe Up Socks, Spin to Knit Socks, Knitting Two at a Time Socks, and Heel and Toe Variations for Top Down Socks.
Craftsy also is a great resource for learning more about sock knitting. They also have couple of different top-down sock knitting classes. This includes two great general classes My First Socks with Lucy Neatby and Essential Skills with Anne Budd, plus one for knitting socks specifically using the magic loop method. Once you’ve got the basics down, there a several advanced courses. I really want to watch Socks My Way: Heel & Toe Variations by Laura Neel, because she’s the author of favorite sock reference book Sock Architecture (Amazon/Bookshop). As I’ve mentioned before, Craftsy has some really great deals for new members, so you can watch as many of these classes as you want for a really reasonable price!
Skillshare has a few classes, Knitting For Beginners: Basic Sock Pattern walks you through a pair of thick, house socks using the DPN method. This is a great class if you’re interested in knitting socks, but a bit put off by knitting at a small gauge. Cozy House Socks: An introduction to Sock Knitting is another basic top-down sock knitting class, but this one uses the magic loop method. Knit Socks that FIT is a great class, after knitting your first pair of socks you find yourself struggling with altering your sock pattern or getting your socks to fit.
If you’re ready for something a bit more challenging, Domestika has a corse on knitting color work socks with Charlotte Stone of Stone Knits. This class does cover the basics of sock knitting, but the main focus is on learning how to design and knit color work patterns.
Hand Knit Sock Kits
I was surprised at how few sock knitting kits there are on the market that include all the things a newbie sockist would need to make their first pair. Most “kits” include yarn and maybe a pattern. However, a few do exist.
Botanicalsocks on Etsy has a few cute options that include all the supplies you need, plus detailed instructions and a video tutorial. I love the color work Chamomiles Socks and this kit for some adorable lace socks. The kits ship from Bulgaria, so they may take a little time to arrive. But even with shipping most of the kits come out to 40$-50$ USD, which is a good deal for the materials and instructions combined.
The Wooly Thistle also offers an online video course that covers how to knit their Agatha Socks (a lovely top-down lace sock) using their Rambler sock yarn. There is an optional kit that includes the yarn, pattern, a project bag, and a stitch marker. You do, however, need to purchase needles separately. I love this kit because it uses a non-superwash, nylon-free yarn made with wool from three different breeds of sheep that was made to be strong enough for socks, while still having a lovely hand. I didn’t know this yarn existed until recently, and now I realllllllllly want to order some!
Crafter.com also has a sock knitting kit with a video tutorial. This was my personal introduction to sock knitting and I still think it was a great introduction to the craft. The socks here are thick slipper socks, so if you have some sizing issues or the come out a bit rough looking, it’s not a big deal. The kit includes enough yarn for you to knit three pairs of socks, so by the time you finish you should feel like you have a good idea what you’re doing! This kit includes three separate patterns, which include increasingly complex cable patterns.
Do you have any great tips for someone who wants to learn how to knit socks? Let me know down in the comments or over on Instagram!
You don’t mention knitting socks on 8 or 9″ circulars. They are wonderful to use. Of course DPNs are later required for the toe decrease. I make socks top down with a heel flap. Some people find the small size hard on their hands, but I love them.
You have a great point, I’ve never considered using small circulars! Trying some out is going on my (endlessly expanding) project list 🙂