Experimenting With Non-Superwash Sock Yarn

One of my favorite things to knit is socks. They’re easy to transport for on-the-go knitting, generally need less than one skein of yarn (so I can splurge on the nice stuff!), and they’re both easier than they look and complex enough to be a little challenging. I also find that I get a lot of use out of my hand-knit socks. I wear them pretty much every day during the colder months. Which means I also wear holes through them and have to do repairs. So, I’ve been looking for ways to extend the life of my socks. I’ve started knitting them on smaller and smaller needles. That seems to help a bit, but they still aren’t quite strong enough. So now I’ve started experiment with different yarn choices, starting with using non-superwash sock yarn.

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Superwash vs. Non-Superwash Wool Yarn

Anytime I shop for wool (yarn, fabric, finished garments) I always look to see if it is superwash or not. Superwash wool undergoes an additional processing step during production that significantly affects the way the wool needs to be cared for and how it wears over time.

Why is Superwash Yarn Popular?

Superwash yarn is popular for two main reasons. First, it’s easy to care for. Unlike untreated wool, superwash doesn’t felt. I’ve washed superswash socks in the washing machine with warm water and then (accidentally) thrown them in the dryer and never had a problem with felting. In fact, I’ll purposely run my superwash socks through the dryer every so often because it keeps them from stretching out too much.

Second, superwash wool tends to be softer than non-superwash. The superwash process removes and smooths out the scales that naturally cover the surface of wool, reducing the scratchiness some people experience. The process also usually removes more (if not all) the lanolin that naturally coats wool. Many people who have wool allergies are allergic to lanolin, not wool itself. So, when all the lanolin is removed there’s nothing left to cause an allergic reaction. Last, superwash wool often is made from very fine merino wool, which is very soft to the touch, even before processing.

What are the Downsides to Using Superwash Yarn?

There are three reasons I’m avoiding superwash yarn: its tendency to “grow,” relative weakness, and the environmental harm caused by the superwash process.

The same physical characteristics that make superwash immune to felting also mean that it will stretch out over time. This isn’t always a bad thing. I like using superwash yarn in my beginner hat because it gives the crown a nice loose drape. But that same tendency to grow can lead to droopy socks, which is not great.

The superwash process also weakens wool. I wear my hand knit socks pretty much every day. I don’t just make them for fun! So the longer they can last before needing repairs the better. I also find that most superwash yarn is merino, which is a finer (and thus weaker) fiber to start out with.

Finally, while the superwash process varies between different producers, as far as I can tell it doesn’t seem to be very environmentally friendly. From what I’ve been able to learn, harsh chemicals need to be used to remove the scales for the wool fibers then a polymer (basically plastic) is used to fill holes and smooth out any gaps. I’d be shocked if skipping the superwash step in processing didn’t reduce the overall environmental impact of making yarn.

Sheep Breeds and Yarn

Like dogs, there are many different breeds of sheep. Only a handful of sheep breeds are raised in quantities larger enough to be end up in commercial yarn production. The most common sheep breed you’ll find if you look at yarn labels is merino. Merino sheep produce a fiber that is very fine and soft, making it popular for garments that are worn close to the skin.

Other sheep breeds produce fibers that are larger, which usually makes them less soft. However, what’s lost in softness can be made up for with increased strength, shine, or other desirable characteristics. For example, tapestry weavers often seek out yarn made from wool that has a longer staple length because it can be spun into a smoother, shinier yarn.

When I started this project, I wasn’t fully committed using a non-merino wool yarn, but I did keep an eye out for yarns made with wool from other types of sheep.

Finding Non-Superwash Sock Yarn

Honestly, finding non-superwash fingering weight wool yarn was a bit of challenge for me. Partially, this was because I also choose not to use nylon or other petroleum based fibers in my fiber arts practice. While blending nylon with wool can significantly increase it’s durability, it also sheds microplastics when washed and, in my experience, interferes with the wools ability to breath a bit.

But I was able to find some good options after a little research. I’m sure the yarns below aren’t the only ones available, but they are the ones I was able to find during my search and seriously considered for this project.

Nomad Yarn Natura Mohair – This yarn blends together extra fine merino wool and mohair (a goat fiber). Adding mohair to a wool yarn is said to increase its strength and durability, similar to how nylon is used. I plan on trying out this yarn eventually, but since it’s an undyed yarn, I also need to find time to dye it as well. So, I didn’t pick it this time.

Wooly Thistle Rambler Yarn – The Wooly Thistle had the largest selection of fingering weight non-superwash yarns of any site I looked at. I most seriously considered the Rambler yarn, which is specifically designed to be a good sock yarn and includes wool from three different breeds of sheep. It doesn’t come in a huge range of colors (11 when I last looked) but they were all vibrant and dimensional, so the hardest part would be choosing one! I’ll get around to trying out this yarn eventually I’m sure.

Evaluating the Yarn

Since it shipped from a Canadian small business, it took a little over a week to arrive, which is a perfectly reasonable amount of time and also feels like forever when I’m waiting for yarn!

The yarn itself was beautiful. It has great depth of color and a lovely sheen. However it is a little different from the other yarns I’ve been using to knit socks. It’s hard to know which of these differences are attributable to the different breed of wool used and which were just manufacturers choice, especially as this yarn isn’t specifically designed for socks.

I first noticed that this has a lot less stretch and squish than conventional sock yarn. For those of you that spin, this yarn feels more like a worsted than a woolen style.

It also is a little less soft and a little more scratchy than the superfine merino that gets used in most of the sock yarns I’ve come across. It didn’t bother me while knitting and it doesn’t bother me as I’m wearing the finished socks now. However, it is something to note, especially if you have sensory issues.

Before knitting, this yarn looks like it has a bit more texture than a typical sock yarn. This is because it’s made up of three slightly larger plys, rather than four smaller ones. It also has a bit less twist than many of those four ply sock yarns. However, once it’s knit up I barely notice any difference in texture. Three-ply yarns are still pretty “round” yarns, so this makes sense.

Knitting a Test Swatch

These differences meant that I needed to make a few adjustments to my sock pattern. I had found the first version of the socks to be a tiny bit big anyway, so I decided to eliminate one full repeat of the lace pattern. I also made a note to myself that I would need to carefully think through my sizing options if I release this as a pattern. The decreased stretch would mean that each size would fit a smaller range of feet.

Knitting the Socks

The Finished Socks

I’ve worn the finished socks five times now and I really, really love the finished product. Unlike many of the socks I’ve made with superwash, these socks don’t stretch out over the course of the day. They also are much less likely to fall or sag. At this point, I haven’t noticed any significant signs of wear or matting. I also haven’t found any piling or loose bits of fuzz on the inside of the socks.

The slightly rougher texture of the yarn doesn’t bother me at all. Yes, superwash merino is softer, but this BFL + Silk blend doesn’t feel noticeably scratchy when I wear it. It’s more like the difference between wearing cotton and linen. Linen may be a little stiffer to start, but it’s still lovely to wear!

I’ve been washing the socks the same way I usually do: tap-cold water, gentle “quick wash” cycle, in a garment bag. Then I hang them up overnight to dry. I haven’t noticed any shrinking and felting with this washing method. I am, however, being very careful that these don’t accidentally end up in my dryer!

Overall, I’m happy with the design of the socks, though I still think I need to make a few tweaks. I think for my next sample, I’ll make the heel flap a bit longer, as the half handkerchief heal seems to eat up more of the gusset in the heal turn using this less stretchy yarn. I also want a more defined transition between the top of the foot and in instep.

For science, starting with this pair of socks, I’m keeping tack of how many times I can wear a pair before they develop a hole. As I make new socks, I’ll start tracking them as well. In a year or two I’m hoping to have enough data to draw some conclusions.

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Do you have a favorite non-superwash sock yarn? Let me know in the comments below or over on Bluesky!