Welcome to the Over Under Sock pattern! This is the second sock pattern I’ve released and I’m very excited to share it! The lace pattern used here isn’t very complicated and these are classic “top-down” style socks. So, while I’d recommend you have a bit of experience knitting before trying out your first pair of socks (maybe my beginner hat?), this is a great beginner-friendly sock pattern for the first time sock knitter.
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About This Sock Pattern
I designed these socks as part of my quest to make longer wearing, stronger socks. This is the first pair where I experimented with reducing my needle size from the more common US size 1 (2.25mm) or size 2 (2.5mm) down to a size 0 (2.0mm). Personally, I found that the slightly tighter gauge made for a much more solid feeling fabric, without really effecting the experience of knitting in the slightest! This is still a beginner-friendly sock pattern, even with the smaller gauge.
Otherwise, these are fairly classic top-down style socks. The leg and instep are knitted using a lace pattern I adapted from a lace chart I found on the website Gathered, called the Eyelet Weave Lace Pattern.
The sock structure was created with help from the book Sock Architecture by Lara Neel. If you find yourself wanting to make significant changes to this pattern (or any other sock pattern) I can’t recommend that book enough.
I used a birds-eye back heel, which gives you a reinforced back heel that is worked very similarly to a classic slip-stitch heel, just shifted a bit every other row. This pattern also uses a half-handkerchief heel, which is very similar to a round short-row heel, but has a sharp triangle shape instead. Last, this pattern uses a classic wedge toe that’s grafted together at the very end.
Knitting Skills Needed
As mentioned above, this pattern is pretty friendly to first time sock knitters. I wouldn’t recommend it to someone who’s totally new to knitting, but if you’ve successfully made a project or two and like a challenge, this is a good place to start. Generally, any design that is top-down and doesn’t have too complicated of a stitch pattern is going to be a beginner- friendly sock pattern
If you’ve never knit socks at all before, you may find you need a little additional help to understand the pattern. Luckily, I’ve also got a post on my top tips and resources for knitting socks. No matter where you are in your knitting journey, you should find something in there that will help you.
Sizing
This pattern is written for three sizes: small, medium, and large. The size is based on food circumference, and the length of the foot is customized as you go. Choose your size by measuring around the widest part of your foot, typically just below the toes. Measure with your foot flat on the ground, while putting weight on it.
| Sock Size | Recommended Foot Circumference Range | Approximate Finished Sock Circumference | Stitches to Cast On |
| Small | 7.5” – 9” | 7.5” | 60 |
| Medium | 9.0”-10.5” | 9” | 72 |
| Large | 10.5”-11.5” | 10.5” | 84 |
If you’re unsure, most people prefer a sock that is a little on the tight side to one that’s a bit large. In a perfect world, you’d choose a size where the finished sock circumference is 1” smaller than your foot circumference. For reference, I have a foot circumference of 8.5” and typically wear a size 7 shoe. I made samples in a size small for myself.
Materials
Fingering weight yarn – approximately 300 yards for a small, 350 yards for a medium, and 400 yards for a large. The exact amount of yarn you use will vary based on the length of your foot and the size you choose to make. For most people, one 100-gram skein of fingering weight yarn should be enough.
I used 70 grams (approximately 300 yards) of Knomad Bisque, a four-ply fingering weight superwash merino yarn that I dyed myself in a custom color (that I have no idea how to reproduce as I did not take good notes. oops.). This yarn only is sold undyed, however you should be able to easily substitute it with most fingering weight wool or wool blend. yarns. Those that are superwash and four-ply will be the most likely to work without any modifications. I’d suggest something like Malabrigo Ultimate Sock, SweetGeorgia Yarns Tough Love Sock, or Black Sheep Dyeworks Fingering Weight Yarn.
For more on how to substitute yarns, see this post: Substituting Yarn and Changing Needle Size (With Case Study!).
As with most lace patterns, this works best with a yarn that leans closer to a solid. A gently variegated yarn looks lovely, but a high contrast yarn with multiple colors will distract from the pattern. The lace pattern will also be most visible if the yarn you use contrasts with the wearers skin. However, any yarn that you enjoy looking at and knitting with is a good choice!
Tools
If you’ve knitted before, most of these should be in your stash already. I’ve linked a few of my favorite options below if you need to purchase them.
- One set (5 needles) double pointed knitting needles in US size 0 (2mm), or whatever size is needed to make gauge. I used Takumi bamboo needles for this sample. However, if you find that these bend or break too easily for you, or if you need to go down to a smaller size to make gauge, I recommend Knitter’s Pride Karbonz carbon fiber needles. If you prefer, there’s no reason that I know of that this project cannot be knitted using circular needles and the magic loop method, however I have not tested this myself.
- One tapestry needle. For weaving in the ends and grafting the toe closed.
- One pair of snips or scissors.
- A ruler or measuring tape, at least 6 inches long.
- Optional: one stitch saver.
- Optional: stitch markers. I usually don’t use stitch markers when using double pointed needles, as I find they get in the way more than they help. However, if you do choose to use them, I’d prefer using a stitch marker that can be opened and closed, rather than a solid ring.
- Optional: sock blockers.
Where to Buy
The pattern for these socks are available through both my Etsy shop and my Ravelry store. Click here to get them on Etsy and click here to buy them from Ravelry. This pattern is available as an instant download only and costs 7$.
Have you tried knitting the Over Under Socks? let me know in the comments below or over on Instagram! I’d love to see what you make, so tag them with #overundersock and #thecraftblogger.