There’s no getting around it, some crafts requirer a significant up-front equipment investment to get started. When I started weaving, I had to figure out what loom to buy. All my sewing students are always asking what sort of sewing machine they need. No one wants to over spend but at the same time working with inferior or inadequate equipment is not at all fun. So, since I’ve now had my Silver Reed LK-150 knitting machine for over a year, I wanted to give you my honest opinion.
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Pros and Cons of the Silver Reed LK-150 Knitting Machine
Pros: Least expensive knitting machine on the market, lightweight, no sponge bar, works with many common sizes of knitting yarn.
Cons: No case, less durable plastic bed, no option to upgrade to advanced features like punch cards, no ribber attachment, only available in mid-gauge.
There’s no getting around the fact that the LK-150 is by far the least expensive knitting machine on the market. At present, you can find this machine for about 500$, depending on the seller. New industrial flat-bed machines start at over 1000$. For me, this was the deciding factor when choosing between an industrial and a hobby machine.
However, there are also a lot of other great things about the LK-150. The machine is very light weight, making it easy to move around. This means that if I need to set it up and take it down again frequently it isn’t a big deal. And while the long shape makes it a little awkward to cary around, if I needed to I could easily take it with me by car, public transit, or walking. The industrial machines are much, much heavier and more awkward to move. I can still move an industrial on my own, but if I’m going any further than across the room, I want a rolling cart to help.
Another big difference between the LK-150 and an industrial machine is that the LK-150 does not have a sponge bar. In industrial machines, this piece is necessary to keep the right amount of spring in the needles so that they knit smoothly. Worn out or compressed sponge bars are frequently the culprit when these machines aren’t functioning right. I heard a rumor at one point that the sponge bar was invented to force companies to have their machines serviced regularly, but I can’t verify the truth of that. It doesn’t matter though, if you get an LK-150, because this machine is designed not to need that part. So, no sponge bar issues, ever!
The last big point in favor of this specific machine is that it is a mid-gauge machine, which means it works best with yarns ranging from about sport weight (size 2) through to light worsted (size 3 or 4). This is the range that a lot of hand knit sweaters and other wearables are knit in. This means that the LK-150 can be used to achieve hand knit look, but much more quickly. It’s also possible to adapt many hand knit patterns to the knitting machine (though this works best with projects that are knit flat). You can also make hybrid projects, where you knit parts of the project by hand and other parts by machine. This is great if you’re working on a project that has large areas of stockinette, which knitting machines just breeze through.
However, there are a few downsides to this machine. The plastic bed makes it much less robust than the metal-bed industrial machines. These metal machines also have a built in case, which is niece. The LK-150 doesn’t have a case at all.
The LK-150 also has a lot fewer options than can be found in industrial machines. The industrial machines can create patterns using punch cards or small on-board computers. They also often have the option of adding a second bed. This allows you to knit in the round or create ribbing in one step. LK-150s can do ribbing, but it’s a tedious, manual process (I honestly find it faster to hand knit my ribbing most of the time).
All knitting machines have a limited range of yarn sizes that they are able to work with, that issue isn’t unique to the LK-150. However, mid-gauge is the only size the LK-150 comes in. So, if you were hoping to regularly knit super bulky or fine sweaters, this machine won’t work for you.
Overall, I found the price and versatility of the Silver Reed LK-150 knitting machine more than enough to balance out any downsides. After a year of moderate use, it shows little signs of wear. It works just as well as the industrial SK-160s that I teach on at my local community college, but in a format that is better suited to home use.
Silver Reed LK-150 Buying Tips
If you search for this machine on Amazon, you’ll find many, many listings that look the same but have difference prices and names. Don’t let that confuse you. If the product pictures look the same, it’s the same machine. The only time you may see something similar for less is if you find an international version of the machine. I haven’t tested one of these out myself, but the ones I’ve seen appear to be nearly identical. If you speak Japanese or are just feeling adventurous, it might be worth looking into.
Other Flat-Bed Knitting Machine Options
There are a few other options if you want to get into machine knitting and feel the SK-150 isn’t right for you. I seriously considered all flat-bed options on this list before making my decision
Silver Reed SK280
If you have the money, a Silver Reed SK-280 would be my choice for a starter industrial knitting machine. This is a standard gauge machine, meaning it works best with fingering weight yarn. So it’s great for kitting things that are a bit finer than you might want to make by hand knitting.
This is also a punch card machine, so it can create textural patterns (like tuck stitch) automatically as you knit. I really like the idea of something that makes patterns a little easier, but doesn’t require the use of computer or any other electronic equipment.
Since this is an industrial machine, there also is the option to add on a ribber (the SRP60N) for an additional 800$ or so. This allows you to knit in the round and create ribbing.
Ultimately, it was price that kept me from going with the Silver Reed SK280. However, I can see myself buying one eventually!
Taitexma Mid-Gauge TH160
As far as I can tell, the Taitexma Mid-Gauge TH160 is the only mid-gauge flat bed metal-bed machine currently in production. While I don’t have any personal experience with it, this blog post by Dayana Knits gives a great overview of the machine.
If you know that you want to knit in mid-gauge, as far as I can tell this is the only currently manufactured industrial knitting machine in that size. It seems to be the equivalent of the discontinued Silver Reed SK-160. We use the SK-160 as the teaching machine at the community college where I work, and I find them great for beginners. They can be bought by themselves for about 1000$ or bundled with a ribber for around 1900$.
Ultimately, I if I was going to spend that kind of money on a knitting machine, I think I would rather have a standard gauge machine. However, if you’re primarily interested in knitting the sport, DK, and light worsted weight yarns that a mid-gauge machine uses, have the money, and want the option of adding a ribber attachment, the TH160 is a great choice.
White Tiger Knitting Machine
This is a bit of an odd one. The White Tiger Fantastic Model is an industrial machine that, at last look, costs about 500$. They also have a cheaper version, the White Tiger Knit Dynamic Model, that I dismissed immediately because it doesn’t come with a tension mast.
I was very tempted by this model, but I didn’t end up with it for two reasons. First, the listing didn’t make it easy to find out what gauge the machine is. The product description box further down the page says it’s a chunky machine (which I’m not particularly interested in), which doesn’t make sense given the number of needles (200, which is typical for standard gauge machines). Regardless, it’s really a red flag to me when a listing doesn’t give me important details like that.
Second, I was concerned about having something this heavy and expensive shipped from overseas. That caused me to hesitate long enough that by the time I finally decided to give it a try, it was out of stock. So, I decided the universe was telling me not to get it, and went with my LK-150.
I’m happy enough with my choice, but I would love to hear about how it went for anyone who ends up picking a White Tiger Machine.
Used Flat Bed Machines
I spent a lot of time looking into buying a used industrial flat bed machine before I bought a new LK-150. It is possible to get a great deal on a good industrial machine by buying used, but you have to be careful.
Generally, I wouldn’t recommend a used machine for a new machine knitter unless you’re able to see it in action (either in person or by video) before committing. If the seller says it needs any work, make sure there’s a tech in your area who works on knitting machines. This can be really hard to find, even in big cities.
When I was searching, what I found was that the majority of used machines that were listed online in good condition were nearly as expensive as buying a new machine. The savings just weren’t significant enough to be worth the risk for me.
When I found a machine that was really inexpensive, it was often in bad shape. From just looking at the listings, I wasn’t able to separate the machines with superficial damage from those with real problems. And since those machines were still several hundred dollars, I wasn’t willing to take the risk.
The other issue with used machines is that many of them aren’t being manufactured anymore. And I’m not just talking about specific models, many companies have fully exited the knitting machine business. This means getting parts for some models can be difficult or impossible. There is something fun about hunting for parts and cleaning up a neglected machine can be very satisfying. But if you just want to get down to knitting, these may not be for you.
When buying a used machine you also want to make sure that all or most of the accessories are included. Many of the accessories, like weights and transfer tools, aren’t optional add-ons. They’re essential for using the machine. It would be like buying a sewing machine with no presser feet. The cost of replacing these can add up quickly, erasing any savings you might get from buying used.
That said, if a great deal on a used knitting machine falls into your lap, go ahead and grab it! This does happen from time to time and as long as you do your due diligence and ask a lot of questions you can end up with a machine that will last you decades.
Hobby Circular Knitting Machines (Sentro and Addi)
These aren’t flat-bed machines, but given their ubiquity and popularity, I felt like I needed to include it as an option.
Sentro circular knitting machines and other hobby grade circular knitting machines like those from Addi are by far the least expensive way to get into machine knitting. They tend to run from about 40$ up through 150$, depending various factors, like the number of needles and the brand.
I haven’t tried one of these machines out myself, but from what I understand, these machines are pretty limited in terms of both size and functionality. If you’re interested in making small, primarily knit-in-the-round projects, one of these might be the right fit for you. They shouldn’t be confused with either flat-bed knitting machines or metal needle circular sock machines, but if those are out of your budget, it can’t hurt to give them a look.
FAQ
What is a Flat-Bed Knitting Machine?
Flat-bed knitting machines are devices used to make sweaters and other knitwear using a series of hooks arranged in a line and a special “knitting carriage” that moves the needles and connects them with the yarn. These machines can range from fully automated to completely manual.
Knitting machines are best at quickly knitting in stockinette, but can also knit in a wide variety of patterns. The pieces knit using a knitting machine can be shaped in a variety of ways by manipulating the stitches, either manually, by punch card, or by computer.
Flat-bed knitting machines are still used in manufacturing clothing today, though the ones used in factories are increasingly the more automated varieties. However, smaller manufacturers may still use simpler, non-computerized knitting machines to make goods for retail sales.
Increasingly, knitting flat-bed machines are used by hobbyists and artisans, either on their own or combined with hand knitting, to create one-off or small batch garments
Who Would Want a Flat-Bed Knitting Machine?
Flat-bed knitting machines are great for the aspiring knitwear designer. If you’re interested in designing a knitwear line for retail, learning how to use a flat-bed knitting machine will give you an idea of how ready-to-wear knitwear manufacturing differs from hand knitting. Some knitting techniques are much faster and easier on a knitting machine, while others are easier by hand.
I also find that being able to use a knitting machine can be useful even if you plan to be a knitting pattern designer. I personally found that, because I was able to knit so much more quickly, I started understanding the structure of knitwear more quickly.
Some people who have hand pain or other issues with hand mobility may find knitting machines are a good fit. This is very specific to each person, however. I’d recommend trying a knitting machine to someone who still has the ability to knit or so for short periods of time, but isn’t able to complete larger projects. Machine knitting still involves a lot of manipulation and machine knit projects often require hand finishing, so they aren’t appropriate for everyone. But machine knitting does require significantly less repetitive fine finger movements, so it may be right for some.
A flat-bed knitting machine would also be a great investment for anyone who would like to be able to create their own sock-blanks for dyeing. A mid-gauge flat bed machine like the LK-150 can quickly create blanks with a variety of yarns, including one or two strands of fingering weight yarn.
Finally, knitting machines are great if you’re the sort of person who loves learning new tools and playing with machines. They can be a bit finicky, especially at first. And are just generally unlike anything else I’ve ever used. But they’re very fun to play with if you’re so inclined!
Why Do Knitting Machines Come in Different Gauges? (And Which Gauge Do I Want?)
Knitting machine gauge is determined by how close together the needles of the machine are. This distance determines how tight or loose it’s possible to knit, which then determines what sizes of yarn can be used. Machines will also have smaller or larger needle hooks, depending on the suggested size of yarn.
The LK-150 is a mid-gauge machine, which means the needles are 6.5mm apart. This is great for sport, DK, and light worsted weight yarn.
Standard gauge machines are 4.5mm apart and work best with fingering weight yarn. Bulky gauge machines have needles that are 9mm apart and work best with bulky weight (yarn classification size 5) yarns. Fine gauge machines are 3.6mm apart and use lace or very light fingering weight yarns.
Regardless of the gauge, heavier yarn than is recommended can sometimes be used, if every other needle is used. However, it needs to be small enough to fit in the hooks of the needle. Yarn that is a lighter weight than recommended can be used if a very loosely knit fabric is desired or if held double or triple to make a larger yarn. Holding yarn double or triple can sometimes make very nice fabric on a knitting machine.
Is Using a Knitting Machine “Cheating?”
No, using a knitting machine isn’t “cheating.” While some things, like large areas of stockinette are much faster with a knitting machine, the maker still has to put a lot of thought and effort into the knitting process.
I like to think of it this way: hand knitting is like walking while machine knitting is like riding a bike. You need a few simple tools to knit by hand. Think knitting needles = walking shoes. For machine knitting, you need to invest in a more expensive tool (your knitting machine = bike). You can go make things faster on a knitting machine than when knitting by hand, just as you can go places faster on a bike then by walking. But just as biking still involves a lot of work and input from the rider, knitting on a knitting machine takes a lot of skill and input from the knitter.
Is Learning to Use a Knitting Machine Hard?
Flat bed knitting machines were originally used in factories, so even the home variations are built more like industrial equipment. This means there can be a bit of a learning curve. And unlike hand knitting, it’s unlikely that you’ll have someone around who also knows how to use the machine.
However, once you get the of casting on and casting off down, I find most people I’ve taught catch on pretty quickly.
Where Can I Learn How to Use a Flat Bed Knitting Machine?
In-person classes can be hard to find, but they do exist. The best way to find one is to ask around at your local yarn store. Even if they don’t offer classes directly, they may be able to connect you with someone who does. It’s also worth checking your local community college. I teach a section of machine knitting every spring semester, but it’s just listed in the course catalog as “Textile Knitting Studio.”
There also are online classes that do a great job of teaching the basics. When I was learning, I watched Susan Guagliumi’s three class series (Essentials, Hand-Manipulated Stitches, and Color & Texture). I also found Renée Callahan’s Sweater Basics really helped me learn how to put all the basics techniques together into a complete garment. Both of these classes are on Craftsy.com.
The School of SweetGeorgia also recently released Machine Knitting: Basics, which looks like a great intro class. It includes two beginner-friendly project options, so you can put your new skills to work right away.
If you prefer books, I use Designing Knitting Textiles by Florence Spurling (Amazon/Bookshop) as the textbook when I teach. It has a lot of nice illustrations and step-by-step instructions for a wide range of techniques. If you’re into designing your own knitwear, I found Mastering Machine Knitting by Lucia Consiglia Tarantino (Amazon/Bookshop) to be very inspiring. However, this is more about the design process than using your machine. Last, Hand -Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitting by Susan Guagliumi (Amazon/Bookshop) is a great resource if you love texture, though it is primarily a stitch dictionary.
Can I Use Hand Knitting Patterns with My Knitting Machine?
Yes and no. Unless you have a machine that has a ribber attachment (and these are only available for metal bed machines), you won’t be able to knit in the round. So any pattern will have to be adapted to be knit flat.
Knitting machine patterns also need to be inverted because knitting machines work purl side out. Most hand knitting patterns assume that the knit side of the pattern will be out. So, most patterns need to be re-written to reflect this.
There also are some things that are possible to do on a machine, but are too much of a pain to bother. For example, garter stitch (alternating rows to knit and purl stitches), is really easy to do by hand, but a nightmare to do by machine. You have to either manually reform every other row, or take the knitting off the machine, flip it, and rehang it each row. No one with any sense would do that to themselves!
So, if you have a pattern that is knit flat, isn’t too complicated to adjust for the machine, and it uses a size of yarn that works for the machine, it is totally possible to use that pattern.
However, you may want to look for machine knitting specific patterns. They aren’t as common as hand knitting patterns, but they do exist. This Honeycomb Tuck Stitch Sweater by Hilary Sahota looks like it would be a great beginner project. I also like this Get it Girl Bra Top pattern by Lauren Riker. Just read the pattern descriptions completely to ensure that the pattern will work for your specific machine before buying and you should be fine.
What Types of Yarns Work Best in a Knitting Machine? Which Won’t Work at All?
Yarns that are smooth, stretchy, and the correct weight for your machine tend to work the best in knitting machines.
Smooth yarns are best because they don’t clog up the tension element of the machine or get caught in the carriage. It is possible to use many textured yarns, but you’ll want to sample before you commit to a project. If you’re new to machine knitting, I recommend grabbing a bunch of weird yarns from a thrift store and playing around a bit. You’ll quickly start to get a feel for which yarns will work and which will cause you problems.
Stretchy yarns work best because they cause less stress on the machine and will bounce back after knitting to create a fabric with better coverage. That’s why woolen spun wool or acrylic 4-ply yarns work so well in machines. You can use yarns with less stretch, but you may need to make adjustments to the gauge and it may feel more difficult to move your carriage.
Using yarns that are the correct weight for your machine is very important. Yarns that are too big will pop out of the hooks or just refuse to knit all together. Yarns that are smaller than is recommended can be used, but it won’t be possible to go down to a gauge small enough to get full coverage. You can still do fun, open knits in smaller yarns. You can also hold yarns double or triple to get to a more usable size for your specific machine (this is actually really common in commercial knitwear). But generally, if you want your machine to work as designed, you’ll need to stick to the recommended yarn size.
So, when I’m exploring new techniques with my mid-gauge machine, I like to use a wool or acrylic yarn that’s a sport, DK, or light worsted weight. (Pro-tip: if you also dye your own yarn, use yarn that will work well in your knitting machine for dyeing experiments and you can use any mistakes or ugly colors for matching knitting practice!). For projects, I’ll use whatever I want, but I’ll make sure to sample before I begin designing. That way I know what the limitations of the yarn/machine pairing are before I get too attached to anything.
Have you used a knitting machine? Let me know which one and what you thought of it in the comments or over on Instagram!